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 The shearing of the lawn
It is the outstanding operation of the maintenance of the grass, which reveals all the beauty of it. Shearing makes it possible to remove most of bad grasses and if it is practised regularly, it forces the tufts to thicken.
Note: take care of the good sharpening of the blade for a clear cut without risk of pulling up and yellowing.
Which are the selection criteria of a mower ? Surface to be mowed conditions the cutting width
The frequency of shearing influences the type of machine (mower, mulcheuse or mowing)
The degree of slope is to be taken into account in the choice of the motorization.
The presence of obstacles on the lawn implies the choice of a thermal model (less constraining than an electric model with wire)
Electric mowers for the small surfaces which do not exceed 500 m2
Thermal mowers for the surfaces ranging between 500 and 3000 m2
Mowers autoportées for the large surfaces of more than 3000 m2 (as of 1000 m2 for those which wish an optimum comfort of shearing)
Which height cut to adopt? A height of cut in connection with the final destination of the lawn (the more important trampling is, the more the grass must remain high to allow a fast regeneration)
Height of “ideal” cut: from 4 to 5 cm
Never not to cross more of the third of the grass bit (in spring, once by week)
The Councils:
To mow short in spring
In hot weather (summer) and lawn in the shade, to mow higher
For the last shearing of autumn, to record the height of cut to 6-7 cm and to collect the dead sheets.
Should the cut grass be collected ? The collecting allows the penetration of water and the nutritive elements in the ground. It slows down felting (yellowing). Contrary, the not collected grass, far from transforming itself into compost, ferments and becomes favourable with the development of cryptogamic diseases.
The mulcheuses ones (or mowers mulching) offer a good alternative
They make it possible to chop grass in fine particles which fall down between the bits of the lawn without choking it and will ensure in summer a better resistance to the dryness.
Note: the mulching requires a more frequent shearing and a scarification.
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The watering of the lawn
Water is essential to make push the new seeds, dissolve manure and make it possible the substances to diffuse itself in the ground (the grass can absorb only water soluble nutrients and starting from a certain temperature of approximately 10°C)
To sprinkle regularly and in a uniform way (to avoid the formation of puddle pools)
To sprinkle preferences the evening to limit evaporation
Advised quantities: 5 to 10 l/m2 (either 15 to 20 min with a sprinkler)
Note:
An irrigation plant buried ensures comfort and autonomy (effective, precise watering and without water wasting)
To automate the watering of approximately 16 zones (probably to group) different natures:
Large flower stand hones some (1 to 3 m2),
Punt bandages against house (between terrace and house),
Solid masses in lawn,
Small kitchen garden (tomato, aromatic herb),
Hedge of edge of basin (20M/L X 2.50 of average width approximately) with plants and small shrubs of wetlands to dry.
And perhaps part of lawn (on the whole 4000M2) but a beautiful lawn on a small half would be enough for me)
What to choose ?
Goutteurs ?
Oscillating sprinklers ?
Micro asperseurs ?
mixed one…
Indeed, you can group the zones by nature of watering (and not by geography)
Example: drop by drop can distribute several distinct zones although there is only one principal drain, therefore only one electromagnetic sluice gate. Gather garden, hedges, small punts bands on drop by drop. For the broader solid masses, use to it micro sprinkling. The kitchen garden must always be on a network with share.
However, there exist programmers for 16 networks (16 electromagnetic sluice gates)
If, in a single zone, the plants are of different nature, nothing obliges you to put the same goutteurs everywhere.
You can, on a drain, to put goutteurs of 2 liters and goutteurs of 8 liters…. or then, to put a gouttor of 2 liters at certain plants (“dry”) and 5 goutteurs of 2 liters at the others (“wet”)
For the lawn, useless to imagine to sprinkle this surface (or a part) with oscillating sprinklers.
Is needed buried automatic watering.
If you want to sprinkle only half, privilege the zones in periphery of the house, and the accesses of the terrace.
To conclude, it is necessary well for you “mixed” various solutions of watering, but attention not to mix them on the electromagnetic sluice gates.
Example:
Electromagnetic sluice gate n°1: micro sprinkling very massive of the garden on the front one
EV n°2: drop by drop hedges on the right and on the left
EV n°3: watering buried lawn with dimensions right house
EV n°4: watering buried lawn in front of house
EV n°5: watering buried lawn postpones house
EV n°6: drop by drop pot
EV n°7: micro sprinkling all solid masses on the back
EV n°8: punts bands terrace and descent of garage
On the same electromagnetic sluice gate, and thus the same drain one does not mix watering buried and micro sprinkling, or drop by drop with another thing….
In all the case, a technical study on plan is essential
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 To filter the water of my basin, I used the method which follows: upstream of my cascade I made a filter with an old buried dustbin in which I put volcanic stones then sand and finally of the plants of marécage.
Le principle is simple, it is necessary to make pass water by the stones volcanic using the pipe which leaves the pump, this water will go up to pass by sand to purify itself then to leave by a bored hole at the edge supériéur the dustbin and to feed the cascade, the purpose of the marshy plants will be to clean the fitre. if this filter is buried that will give a completely natural effect.
To have a clear water, recover of a thick layer the bottom of the basin with sand then increasingly large gravel… it will drop the mud at the bottom and the plants will push again
I have a small pond (10000 L) whose water is clear like mineral water. For that, I do not use a filter, but I use an air pump of aquarium continuously, as well in summer as during the winter. Once per annum I put also bacteria eat-vase. The amount is that which the fish eat in 5 minutes.
Regularly to remove the dead sheets. 1/3 of the basin must remain in the shade. For that, I employ plants will gunéras which give large sheets.
To prevent that the watery compost escapes by the holes of the baskets planned for the plantation of the watery plants and to avoid only the fish excavations this compost by the top, I thread on the baskets of sticking or low which I bore on the top to pass the stems of the plants.
In the funds of your ponds, pose volcanic lava, it is used as prefilter for the mud and the plants can if enraciné easily. I have a pond of 20000 liters out of 4 levels, I do not have more problem of vase since the purchase of the volcanic lava. Attention for food for your fish all depends on the season because each food its season except the winter below 8°c not to more give to eat with fish. I have always done that for 7 years (my fish go to wonder)
When you build your water part paid attention looked in the garden if you do not have too many moles because their galleries makes it possible leau to circulate under the cover and at the season of rain (as much of our winter) you can have very large damage with your pond ex: the cover is raised, the bank break under the pressure of water (to drain before the installation of the cover)
The reversed filter is very easy to realize by a good handyman. My filter made + 1/2 m3 of capacity, it is filled with balls of argex with a layer of 10 cm gravel to the top (the argex fleet), with a plantation of plants of marshes.
It is necessary to make a foundation (concrete slab), to build the tank with blocks concretes of 15, not to forget to arm masonry and to cover the interior with a damp-proof mortar bed.
To place blocks or bricks in the content of the tank (without mortar) to place grids out of galvanized metal or stainless which one finds in all the bricos.
To place the pipe coming from the pump, under the grid (not to forget a non-return valve or an air intake to prevent that the filter is not emptied when the pump is with the stop.
To envisage an opening (a block) to place the made cascade of stones punts and concrete or another material following the tastes.
It any more but does not remain to fill the tank with the argex and the gravel and to place the plants according to your inspiration.
While letting function the pump supplying the filter the winter, the circulation of water left a zone free from ice and that in spite of one prolonged enough period of freezing.
A pump not expensive: a pump recovered on an old dishwasher. Flow, approximately 3 m3/heure. Perfect for filter (mine is with sand of 75 kg) and cascades, on the outlet side of the filter. A craftsman out of household electricals sells it in récup. between 10 and 15€
The best council than I can give you after several finally expensive experiments is: to choose the quality of filtration and the choice of a good pump by ex: capacity 3 m3 filters 3 rooms 8000L pump oase aquamax 3500L/h filter UV 15watts basin planted well and much of care.
I do not have a lamp UV (out of my means!) but I clean the top of my biological filter (foam) every day… and my water is clear… then take your dignified suffering and even if water is green it should be cleared up.
Nothing is used for to clean the basin, I use a vat of filtration which comprises various matters such as rock of lava in the content then gravel bag of rock and then of the other bags containing doubtless very fine gravels of color white and finally a blue foam my pump functions of March to the frosts as of the restarting of that Ci I add bacteria in the box and puts a bottle of cleanwater my water remains clear like that of a bottle of evian and I have even young fish which were born what proves that my basin is balance and sufficiently furnished with plants such as Elodea, water lilies, fixed, salicaire, reeds, iris….the basin contains 10000 liters
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