The presence of foam is the sign of a shaded lawn but especially of a badly ventilated, compact ground and badly drained.
It is necessary to eliminate foam, but also to fight against the bad conditions which support its installation.
• Destroy foam
Simplest of épandre ferrous sulphate (20 g/m2) is. You can find some in the trade in liquid, easy form with épandre with the watering-can equipped with a slope for weeding.
There exist also products containing other active matters which do not stain the pavements, as well as manures with antifoaming associated.
• Renovate your lawn
When foams became black, remove them with a rake with grass or, better, a scarifier and renovate by a sursemis.
• Prevent the installation of foams
• Fight against felting
waste of shearing and especially the old dry roots form with the years a thick felting which harms as well the ventilation of the ground as to the food of the grass.
It is advised to pass the scarifier in spring or in autumn when the grass is in phase of active growth.
• Air the old grasses
if your lawn is old, and especially if the ground heavy and is often trampled, it is necessary to pass a mechanical aerator to facilitate the penetration of the air and water.
• Bring manure 2 to 3 times per annum
You will find in the trade of the made up manures (nitrogenizes NR, phosphorus P and potash K) especially studied for the grass.
• Choose the manure adapted to the required effect
• manures “whiplash”
they quickly release the nitrogen which they contain: that produced an immediate effect on the growth and colouring of the sheets. Are used they “to awake” a tired lawn.
• manures “with slow release”
they release nitrogen gradually, and the plants can consume it progressively their needs.
They reduce the risks of burn, maintain a beautiful colouring of the foliage and they are less likely to be trained in-depth by the rains.
• Sprinkle copiously after spreading
The pellets of manures which settle on the sheets are very concentrated and can burn the foliage locally. A good watering will dissolve these pellets and will make penetrate the fertilizing elements in the ground.
• Act precociously
The bad most awkward grasses are recognized easily by their sheets in rivet washer very close to the ground.
You can tear off them with the hand, after a watering by taking care to tear off the root well (with the assistance, possibly, of a knife or a gauge with asparaguses)
The use of a selective weedkiller (which does not destroy graminaceous a your lawn) should not intervene before at least the third shearing if it is about a new lawn.
One can pulverize it or the épandre with the watering-can equipped with a special slope. You will also find in the trade of weeding manures.
Do not forget that weeding them are more effective on young grasses: do not wait until the grasses are developed too much, nor that your grass either too invaded to intervene.
• Maintain your grass in good health
A tired lawn, felted, has evil to be nourished and is more easily invaded by bad grasses.
Think of scarifying and of airing your lawn to preserve the competitiveness of the graminaceous ones.
• As a last resort, think of renovating the lawn
If your lawn old and is really invaded by bad grasses, better is worth to renovate it after destruction of bad grasses.
• To mow at the good moment and regularly and you will thus limit “naturally” the competition of bad grasses.
In spring and in autumn, periods of growth activates, a shearing per week is the rule.
On the other hand, a grass of ornament must be mowed at least twice per week (and a green of golf, every day !)
If you seldom mow, shearing will be more difficult and will take much more time.
Wait until the lawn is dry, therefore do not intervene too early the morning: the cut will be much more effective and your neighbors will thank you !
• To mow with the good height
The more one mows close-cropped, the more it is necessary to often mow !
The height of cut depends on the type of lawn, the species which were sown and the aesthetic aspect which one wishes to obtain.
• A grass of ornament must be mowed very close-cropped (1 to 3 cm): it must thus be made up of adapted species and requires frequent shearings
• A grass of relaxation or sport is mowed to 5 cm. The more the grass is trampled, the more it should be preserved long (up to 10 cm)
The development of the roots is proportional to the length of the sheets: a close-cropped mowed grass will be more sensitive to trampling, with the dryness…
One should not remove more than 1/3 the height of grass to each cut.
• What to make waste of shearing ?
• To leave Them on the spot
For a grass of sport and approval, if you mow very regularly and if the lawn is quite dry, you can on the spot leave waste. The cut part should not exceed 2-3 cm.
To use Them as mulching in other parts of the garden, if your grass were not weeded chemically, you can épandre the cut, on 2 to 3 cm thickness, with the foot of your vegetable cultures (tomatos, aubergines, beans,…), or on the naked ground of your solid masses, with the foot of the trees and shrubs, etc… This “mulching” will limit evaporation for the dry periods and will save watering.
• To perforate Them
Shearings of grass can be perforated only or mixes some with other waste of the garden and kitchen.
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