To obtain a beautiful lawn, take this some advice:
The creation of the lawn
It is advised to turn over the ground to the autumn then to finish the preparation of the ground and to sow in spring. It is possible to sow the grass at the beginning of the autumn, in September-October, at the moment when the ground did not cool yet and 6 weeks before the apparirion of frosts. The lawn will settle before the winter to occupy the ground more quickly. In the case of a muddy ground and sticking, add a good layer of sand which you will turn over.
Spread out and level your surface with the rake
Profit to withdraw the stones, which obstruct the growth of the grass and which risks early or late to damage the blade of your mower.
Stabilize your ground using a roller
Weed one month front by using one weeding total trade in order to obtain a virgin land of all grasses.
The choice of the period of sowing is paramount because one needs sufficient moisture and heat so that the grass raises quickly. In spring, sow March at May with a preference for May and if not await the end of the summer to make your sowing which will thus have time to settle for the winter.
One week before sowing to spread out manure for grass. Sprinkle so that manure disaggregates and penetrates in the ground.
Sowing is carried out by spreading out seeds in cross passages uniformly. Rake then to hide seeds slightly and pass by again your roller for good to put them in contact with the ground.
Sprinkle the days of dry time
With a height of approximately 10 cm, the grass is sufficiently enraciné, you can then mow it not too short and then mow every week so that it thickens well.
Shearing
In hot and wet period (May-June), mow every week your lawn so that the grass ramifies instead of developing in height, if not do not wait until it is too high! In spring, also give him manure in pellet, for a good starting.
In spring or the end of the summer, catch up with the holes of your lawn of to a bad development or the elimination of some bad grasses.
Remove the bad grasses dice their appearance but especially in spring before they develop too much and extend.
In summer, mow less short so that moisture remains longer in the grass.
The elimination of foam
Several factors support the development of foam:
a ground with acid tendency
a presence of moisture
a too compact ground
a lack of light
a lack of manure of the grass
To eliminate foam and to cure the compressing of the ground, it will be necessary to make a scarification of your ground is with a manual scarifier for small surfaces or electric for largest. Scarification thus consists in digging the ground of fine furrows. This operation applied in the two directions of your lawn will enable you to eliminate foams and to air your ground. Recover then your lawn of a good compost and possibly resow the parts damaged with grass of after-culture.
For the elimination of foam, you also can use ferrous sulphate which is very effective. Once dried foam, rake with a rake with the teeth tightened to withdraw it. The ferrous sulphate acts like a whiplash for the grass. Will know how the ferrous sulphate causes to acidify your ground and thus to support one pushes back of foam! (Made in March and September)
Shearing
In hot and wet period (May-June), mow every week your lawn so that the grass ramifies instead of developing in height, if not do not wait until it is too high! In spring, also give him manure in pellet, for a good starting.
In spring or the end of the summer, catch up with the holes of your lawn of to a bad development or the elimination of some bad grasses.
Remove the bad grasses dice their appearance but especially in spring before they develop too much and extend.
In summer, mow less short so that moisture remains longer in the grass.
The elimination of foam
Several factors support the development of foam:
a ground with acid tendency
a presence of moisture
a too compact ground
a lack of light
a lack of manure of the grass
To eliminate foam and to cure the compressing of the ground, it will be necessary to make a scarification of your ground is with a manual scarifier for small surfaces or electric for largest. Scarification thus consists in digging the ground of fine furrows. This operation applied in the two directions of your lawn will enable you to eliminate foams and to air your ground. Recover then your lawn of a good compost and possibly resow the parts damaged with grass of after-culture.
For the elimination of foam, you also can use ferrous sulphate which is very effective. Once dried foam, rake with a rake with the teeth tightened to withdraw it. The ferrous sulphate acts like a whiplash for the grass. Will know how the ferrous sulphate causes to acidify your ground and thus to support one pushes back of foam! (Made in March and September)
Do-it-yourself garden
handbook of gardening
How to manufacture its own insecticide ?
To make a concentrate any use
This “biological” insecticide receipt general should make it possible to decrease the infestations in your garden.
This natural insecticide is also effective like fungicide against the white and rust.
To pulverize rather the morning early and to wash the foliage with water 15 minutes after application.
Components of the insecticide House:
1 liter of water
10 to 20 ml of soap
10 to 30 ml of oil with baby
10 to 20 ml of bicarbonate of soda
To make a concentrate:
2 complete heads of garlic,
to cover the oil garlic if not to add 4 spoons to oil soup
To let macerate 24 to 48 hours
To add 2 spoons to tea of soap with crockery and 4 water cups for 4 liters
Dilution: to use in the proportion of 1 of concentrate for 20 of water for the grass for example. Not to hesitate to dilute with more water and to apply the morning early because the sun can burn the coated oil sheets.
Another general insecticide:
It is necessary to take 2 cloves of garlic with 1 onion and a spoon of Cayenne pepper ground.
To make macerate the whole in one liter of ebullient water during one to two hours then adding to it soft soap (a spoon). To let the whole macerate during one week before filtering then to use in your garden while vaporizing on your plants to drive out the plant louses and other insects.
The pyrèthe: against the plant louses and acarina, white flies, thrips and insects in general.
The pyrèthre is a cousin of the daisy and a natural insecticide. Its sheets indeed contain pyréthines a substance which causes the paralysis of the insects and acarina in a fast and effective way, especially per good weather.
One should not hesitate to renew the treatment because the pyrèthre is degraded quickly with the light and is diluted with the rain. But one should not misuse it because if it is inoffensive for the mamifères, he is effective against all the insects, including the useful insects like the ladybirds and the bees and not only the acarina or the vermin
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